Maspalomas —Some will say that everything is going well, that tourism continues to boom in the Canary Islands, that the accommodation market is healthy, and that the figures are "historic." That Tenerife and Gran Canaria are above the regional average daily rate (€119,32), that spending per tourist per day is up to €176,87, and that total spending has now reached €22.350 billion. That the British continue to lead the way with 35% of total spending, and that even El Hierro, the poor relation of Canarian tourism, is growing at a rate of 10,3%. But come with me to the south of Gran Canaria, to Maspalomas, and let's see if these fireworks aren't hiding a fire in the background.
In Maspalomas, everything seems the same as always: sun, beach, Central European retirees, full hotels. But the ground is shaking. Not because of the tourists, but because of the model. The average daily rate for Gran Canaria hotels in 2024 was €123,47, a 22% increase from 2022. And yet, the profit margin hasn't kept pace. Why? Because the cost of operating in the Canary Islands, and especially in southern Gran Canaria, has skyrocketed. Staff costs more, when they're available. Energy, despite the climate, isn't cheap. Hotel renovation, blocked by urban development plans living in the era of fax machines, drags on. And the competition, from Egypt to Cape Verde, can't wait.
What's happening in Maspalomas is a warning to all: the euphoria of the numbers doesn't cover the model's flaws. Gran Canaria is growing less than its closest competitors: 8,65% compared to 12,35% for Tenerife or 11,75% for Fuerteventura. Cumulative growth since 2019 barely exceeds 10%, half that of Fuerteventura (31,49%) and well below Tenerife's 25,39%. In terms of tourist spending, Gran Canaria is also lagging behind: only 1,11% more than in 2023, compared to 8,39% for Tenerife or 9,55% for La Palma.
And what about the accommodation sector? ISTAC figures confirm that, since 2019, Gran Canaria has lost accommodations. The 6,75% decline in accommodations across the archipelago is widespread, and Maspalomas, which should be the driving force, is part of the problem. Hotels are filling up, yes, but they're not being renovated. They live off the profits of guaranteed sunshine and low-cost flights, but without investing sufficiently in what's next: sustainability, true digitalization, and segmentation of supply. Meanwhile, macro-projects drag on in paperwork.
In Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, conferences are held, reports are signed, and sustainability awards are collected. But in Maspalomas, something more difficult to measure is missing: a clear vision of the future. Can this jewel of world tourism continue to compete with aging hotels, staff shortages, and an almost total dependence on foreign guests (88,33% in 2024)? Can Gran Canaria remain profitable with a market share falling from 29,1% of accommodations to 25,6% of tourists?
Politicians boast about the "recovery of tourism" and the "record figures." But they don't mention that we're still as dependent on the United Kingdom and Germany as we were in the 90s, nor that domestic tourism barely represents 11,17% of the total. They don't mention that the data is comparable to 2019 because by then we had already been stuck in the same model for a decade.
Maspalomas, with its dunes and history, its enviable climate and hardworking people, should be leading the way for change. But today, rather than a driving force, it seems like a caboose. Until we look beyond the average daily rate and demand a new tourism pact, no transformation will be possible. Only numbers, reports, and yet another season that passed without much fanfare.
